Project Hell (pt 2.)

"Tohru" (tohrurokuno) 02/12/2015 at 02:46 • Filed to: None

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AR-37 installation on truck, final time log.

Started: 9am.

First wheel on: 4pm.

Last wheel on: 1:30am

Trips to auto parts stores: 3

Trips to hardware store: 3

Holes drilled out with 3/4" drill bit: 24

Number of Chevy Prizm lugnuts used: 16

Number of Dorman replacement lugnuts used: 8

Corded drills killed: 2

Profanity shouted: Extensive

The blue one screeches and fires sparks when it encounters any resistance from the drill bit, and most importantly the drill bit quits spinning.

The silver one snapped the handle when the bit jammed.

Both broke on the last hole.

#nothingisevereasy

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 02:51

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Been there, done that. The difference is my drill just doest hold a charge, It always dies ON THE LAST HOLE

ly2v8-Brian > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 02:51

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Both broke on the last hole.

Every time. Check out the list of craig or even a pawn shop for used higher quality power tools like DeWalt and Milwaukee.

Birddog > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 02:51

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What the??

So much carnage.

I'll go search for pt1..

Edit..

WTF? What are you up to?

Them are some ugly bloody wheels.

Tohru > Birddog 02/12/2015 at 03:03

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My factory chrome 14's are starting to rust from the road salt. So I picked up these 16's that are period-correct, in good condition, yet if they start to lose clearcoat and corrode it's not a huge loss.

Tohru > ly2v8-Brian 02/12/2015 at 03:04

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I've had the blue one since 2007. I've let smoke out of it several times, I'm surprised it lasted this long. The silver one is my roommate's and I believe belonged to Jesus when he still did carpentry.

Tohru > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s 02/12/2015 at 03:05

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I'd rather deal with extension cords than dead batteries.

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 03:06

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Same, but you use what you have. Sometimes the best tool for the job is the one right next to you

Birddog > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 03:21

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Finale pics are definitely in order.

Ferrero1911 > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s 02/12/2015 at 03:53

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An especially good attitude when you do stuff that calls for special service tools. Just start rooting through the drawers until you rig up something that will work.

Tohru > Birddog 02/12/2015 at 04:06

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It's dark as my heart outside. Once there is sunlight.

Birddog > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 04:26

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I keep forgetting.

We're all in this dark Midwestern. hole together.

Have some Jack Baruth Michael McDonald.

ly2v8-Brian > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 08:33

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Yeah that all metal case. That is an ancient drill.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > ly2v8-Brian 02/12/2015 at 08:59

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My dad has one that's metal case including the handle, a possibly 35 year old+ Craftsman. The cord on it got replaced from a mid-grade extension cord, so the cord is some 12-15' long. It rocks.

ly2v8-Brian > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 02/12/2015 at 09:09

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My grandpa has one too, those drills have kick.

Meatcoma > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 10:46

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Hammerdrill time.

If you are drilling into something that is breaking drills, you should have used a hammerdrill. They are awesome.

CalzoneGolem > Tohru 02/12/2015 at 12:06

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Those wheels are totally sexxy. I need completed pics!

CalzoneGolem > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 02/12/2015 at 12:07

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Yes. That is the best replacement cord.

Tohru > Birddog 02/16/2015 at 00:20

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Phil_L > Meatcoma 02/16/2015 at 10:03

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A hammer drill - for aluminum? I don't think so. Hammer drills work great for things like masonry.

I suspect the real solution here (well, besides buying wheels that already have the correct hole size) is to use a properly-sized drill press.

Dr. Strangegun > ly2v8-Brian 02/16/2015 at 10:05

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Or even go to the Chinese tool store and find something *proper*... that's a job for at least a 1/2" drill with an accessory handle. The slower, the better... if you can finagle a long thin little curl of metal off your cut, you're golden. Use lube (marked comm'l product, or rubbing alcohol, or WD40), and creep up on the size in small increments.

The tools for the job go kinda like:

- 3/8 corded power drill (poor to marginal) [because unstable in hole and underpowered for torque peaks]

- 1/2 corded power drill (marginal) [because good power, but still unstable]

- 1/2 corded power drill w/acc handle (acceptable) [power and as much stability as handheld drill can get]

- small drill press (good) [because can't go wobbly/drills true, but will slip belt on seized bit... worlds better than broken drill, or wrist]

- mill (excellent) [controlled feed, super rigid, god almighty the PRICE]

Dr. Strangegun > Meatcoma 02/16/2015 at 10:14

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NNgh... no, if he's seizing bits hard enough to break a 3/8" power drill, all a hammer drill would have done was break the bit.

What was likely going on was in that short-depth hole with an unstabilized drill, the bit could wander enough to dig into the material at one point and try to take a giant chunk instead of a small cut. That pulls the bit sideways and jams it into the workpiece. If you don't have enough torque, the drill stalls. If you have enough torque, one of three things happens.

One, the good one, the chip cuts through and you continue, though your hole has a hole in it.

Two, the bad one, something breaks... usually (in experience w/ jobber 2 flute twist drills) the bit will snap one of the faces. Or the drill gives out (geartrain, brushes, case)

Three, the really bad one... bit seizes, workpiece is nice and heavy and the drill can manage enough torque to not stall, but has high internal inertia and the drilling speed was elevated: This one is where you break your hand, wrist, or arm. Or possibly rib, depending on how you braced. This is why accessory handles are important on larger drills, and why you never, ever use a trigger lock.

Captain of the Enterprise > Tohru 02/16/2015 at 14:23

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The silver one is my roommate's and I believe belonged to Jesus when he still did carpentry.

I wish I had more stars to give.

Meatcoma > Phil_L 02/17/2015 at 08:15

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Why wouldn't you use a hammer drill for thick aluminium wheels? In all honesty he probably broke the drills because of bad or improper drill bits and lack of cooling for them.

Phil_L > Meatcoma 02/17/2015 at 08:39

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Just my experience: Drill bits can tend to "dig" into aluminum (one cause of breaking bits); I suspect the hammer action would only exacerbate this issue. I've seen more broken drill bits when drilling metal due to slight misalignment of hand-held drills, something a drill press would help with. That said, I've never tried a hammer drill in thick aluminum applications - so I'll defer to those who have experience.